Just a couple of metres from where we were camped, a couple of bower birds had build their nest.  This nest had an entry and exit and they had lined the walkways with white stones.  They had layered the nest with these white stones.  There were a collection of all different items they had collected over time, from beer can tops to silver objects.  It was fascinating to see them at work during the day.  Apparently they do not lay eggs in this nest, it is more for show.

Buley Rock Hole was another favourite spot. This spot is a series of cascading waterfalls interrupted by magnificent rock holes, some up to 7 metres deep.  The water coming from underground springs is crystal clear, mild in temperature and it is a great way to spend hours relaxing in this natural cool swimming hole.  Quite close was the Florence Falls.  To reach these falls you have to walk down a man made cantilever stair case to the bottom.  Again very popular with tourists.  These falls are smaller than Wangi but just as good.

We visited a couple of attractions which could only be reach by 4 WD.  The first was the Blythe Homestead and then we took a shortcut to the Lost City, a number of weathered standstone pillars (photo).  There was a sign on the gate stating that only experienced 4Wdrivers should attempt this track, it was extremely difficult and should only be tackled by high ground clearance vehicles.  Knowing that these signs always exaggerate, off we went on the 4 km journey which ended up taking over an hour to reach our destination.  The road, track, rough path, almost non existent track was unbelievable, and at one stage there was just a huge amount of boulders and rocks ahead of us.  As we were working out how to tackle what lay ahead, the army turned up behind us.  They had arrived at a most appropriate time and were able to give us directions as to which way to go.  The army drivers "under instruction" were being put through some training and use this track .   We were able to watch them go through this section first before attempting it ourselves.   From then on we were on our own but finally reached the Lost City.  After this little adventure,  Liz was quite happy to return to the main road.

Another trip by 4 WD was to Sandy Creek Falls.  Here again not many tourists visit because of the inaccessibility for 2 WD cars.  The bottom of the pool was just pure sand  and again the water was so clear.  By the time we left we were waterlogged.

It is such a small world.  In two days we had bumped into Julian and Barb Arnold from Melbourne.  They were camped just four sites up from us in Darwin and then at Litchfield we met Joy and Rob Aiken from Melbourne.  It is nice to see a  face that you know.  You meet so many different people during your travels, and keep seeing them again at different places.   This brings me to Rule No. 5 of Outback Touring.   The nice people you meet whilst travelling are always going in the opposite direction to you.  (the converse also applies)

Charlie Who???????????.......   We had four beautiful days at Litchfield and could have stayed longer.  Two hours drive and we arrived at Adelaide River, the home of 'Charlie the Buffalo' from the Crocodile Dundee movie.   We decided to stop for lunch here and have the well known Barra and Chips.  From here we travelled to the Douglas/Daly River Region where we stayed on the banks of the Douglas River.  At night we went and watched the Barramundi jump but we were not successful in catching any.  The only thing we saw were the red eyes of the freshwater crocodiles on the other side of the bank.
 

Butterfly Gorge was an attraction' that we had read about.  Six people had attempted to reach this gorge the day before and only one had actually made it.  Not to be outdone, we made the 4 WD trip of 17 kms. into this remote park.  It is surrounded by towering sheer rock faces, edged by dense riverine vegetation.  You follow the river along until you reach two very steep rocky outcrops.   We managed the first easily enough.  Another short walk to the next very steep rock outcrop again a tricky climb up and down and we came to the sandy beach with a large swimming hole.  To reach the actual gorge, you had to swim about 300 metres across the pool and through the narrow opening to the gorge.  We decided that what we saw was peaceful and beautiful enough, so after a rest and photo session we made our way back.  Not many people would actually make it to this part of the gorge.

On the same road as Butterfly Gorge but easily accessible are the Douglas Hot Springs(photo).  These springs which come out of the ground at a temperature of over 60 degrees flow down into an oasis where the hot water meets the Douglas River.  The hot and cold water meet and as you lie in the pool, you experience the water being cold one minute and then warm or hot the next minute.  It is a very relaxing way to spend the afternoon.

We enjoyed the Douglas/Daly River Park so much that we ended up staying three nights.  We met a couple from Greensborough and enjoyed a couple of nights playing cards and enjoying a few drinks with them.  From there we headed to Umbrawarra Gorge just out of Pine Creek, a 5 km long gorge surrounded by granite  boulders and steep red cliffs.  We walked right into the gorge over rocks and rockpools.  This gorge is not as popular as it is off the beaten track for most people.   Edith Falls was our next overnight stop.    We had visited this place on our way up, and decided to return and stay in the camp ground so we could hike to the Top Pool (photo) again which was just as enjoyable as the first time.  The small rock wallabies here were so people friendly.  You were not allowed to feed them but they let you pat them without them jumping away.  The weather is definitely warming up and many tourists are beginning to move further south.  The walking track at Edith Falls stated that the temperature would be 40 degrees on that particular day.

The next day we headed down to Katherine where we stocked up on supplies, caught  up on housekeeping, and answered our emails. Katherine was warmer than on our northbound trip, so time was spent in the pool and trying to keep cool.

You'll Never, Never Know ........   Our next stop was Mataranka just down the road.  The home of "We of the Never Never" written by Jeannie Gunn.  This township has a museum which includes the history of the area including the events in the area during World War II.  We visited the cemetery and the relics of the old Elsey homestead and also visited the replica built for the making of the movie which is situated at Elsey National Park.  The thermal springs at the national park were worth visiting although popular with tourists.  The pool is spring fed with water at a temperature of 34 degrees and bubbles up from underground at an amazing 30.5 million litres per day.  The swim here is invigorating and quite relaxing.  There is a lot of tourism being developed along the Roper River.  Walking tracks are being built which will enhance Mataranka as a tourist destination.

After Nearly 4 Months We Feel Like We're Heading Towards Home ...... It was all downhill from here and there is a definite feeling of being on our way home.  We had a quick stop off again at the Daly Waters Pub before heading further south.    Our next night was an off road camp spot about 89 km south of Renner Springs.   It was then onto Tennant Creek, with a visit to the Tennant Creek Telegraph Station, 10 km north of the town.  The original stone buildings are being restored.    The Desert Harmony Festival was in full swing when we arrived in Tennant Creek. We checked in at the caravan park, checked out the town and tourist information centre, went to an aboriginal art exhibition and a Cathy Freeman Exhibition of photography then ended up at the Memorial Club to sit and watch the Carlton versus Eagles final in air conditioning comfort drinking a couple of 'barbed wires' for good measure. We thought the weather was to be cooler but Tennant Creek greeted us with 35 degrees.  A quick dip in the park pool later in the day cooled us down.  We would rate Tennant Creek about the same as Cloncurry.

Who Say's The Devil's Lost His Marbles ........The Devils Marbles Conservation Reserve was our next stop.  Thousands of enormous precariously balanced boulders make this reserve a spectacular landmark.  Many of these boulders are the size of low-rise buildings just sitting on top of each other.  Some of these marbles are over 6 metres in diameter and the aborigines believe that the rocks are the eggs of the Rainbow Serpent, the creator of their dreamtime.

Next day saw us drive and drive through the small towns of Wauchope with a population of seven, Wycliffe Well well known for its UFO's.  Its amazing what these small towns grab onto in the way of sightseeing to promote themselves.  Then it was Barrow Creek, well known for its pub.  We stopped here to sample the beer and mix with some of the locals as well.  It was Sunday and many of the aborigines had come to town from outlying villages for a Sunday picnic gathering.  Very interesting.

Native Gap, An Aboriginal Sacred Site,  Read On!.......       That night we decided to stay at Native Gap a conservation area just off the road about 114 km north of Alice Springs.  Quite a pretty spot about 300 metres off the highway with nobody  else occupying the camp area.  No sooner had we settled down for the night, than a carload of aborigines (somewhat intoxicated) pulled up on the side of the highway and started to argue, yell, and swear.  Obviously, they were unhappy about something.  We decided to quietly pack up in the dark and be ready for a quick getaway if needed.  Fortunately they seemed to resolve their differences and all piled back in the car and headed north.  After that episode, we both slept quite peacefully for the rest of the night.  We now know why they are called sacred sites, they are used to resolve disputes.

Alice Springs was only 114 kms further south, which we reached early Monday morning.  We spent the day getting our bearings, shopping and making our plans to visit all the major sightseeing attractions in the region.